The Great Northwoods Getaway
A guide to Minnesota’s Northwestern and North Central State Parks
Welp, 2020 has been a year to be grounded, in one way or another. Yes, the pandemic limited our ability to travel, or should have. But did you know Minnesota is the 12th largest state in the US coming in at over 86,000 square miles in area. That’s right, we are 2 Tennessees, over 3 West Virginias, and nearly 8 Rhode Islands. Minnesota is big and most of it is north of the populous Twin Cities hub. So far north that seeing those parts of the state would require actual vacation time, or a pandemic lay off 😉. Where should you go? I can’t tell you that, but here is a guide to the state parks of Minnesota’s Northwoods, Iron Range, and a few in the Northwestern prairie land.
This list is broken up by driving distance from the Twin Cities. It is further divided between prairie landscape, Iron Range Parks, and Northwoods. Feel free to jump around this guide as you need.
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Northwestern Prairie Landscape: The entire western part of the state is like the great plains. The landscape is flat, barren in the winter, and full of flowing prairies. Oak savannas and rolling hills add amazing contrast to these parks. The prairie has a special power to slow you down.
2–3 Hours
Glendalough: This place is full of wonderful oak savanna fairy forests. Home of Annie Battle Lake, this park is made for easy recreating. A former hunting camp for a well-to-do family around 1900, the land was used by the Star Tribune Newspaper as a resort. Dramatic prairies surround the lake with a few miles of hiking trails. There is a paved bike path, ample water sport rentals, and a few canoe campsites. This park is also home to a rentable yurt.
Inspiration Peak: Technically this is just a wayside stop, but it is cool. Inspiration Peak is a less than a mile hike right off of I-94. The peak gives a great outlook over the ancient rolling hills left by the glaciers thousands of years ago. This place is wonderful for fall leaf peeping.
Lake Carlos: Head northwest from the Twin Cities to Alexandria and you’ll land on Lake Carlos. This prairie park is ripe with wetland hiking trails, amphibians, and 14 miles of shoreline. This park is a hot spot for camping and its two huge campgrounds are often full. Bring a boat bearing in mind that most of Lake Carlos is developed.
Maplewood: This park is the star of the prairie show. Maplewood is a large park with 9,250 acres of wild land. The North Country Trail runs through this park continuing onward to its final destination in North Dakota. The park is wild with some strenuous hiking for these generally flat lands. Beautiful oak stands, lush untouched prairies, and a few lakes. This place is special, take it in.
3–5 Hours
Buffalo River: Almost to Fargo, North Dakota, Buffalo River State Park is a great stretch of northern prairie. The Buffalo River winds across the landscape and cuts through open fields. Although small, this place is great for hiking and birding.
La Salle Lake: Back down by Itasca, MN, La Salle Lake Recreation Area is a great place to fish and boat. The lake is quiet compared to the nearby Itasca State Park. There is a lovely gated prairie preserve across the highway. The wildflowers are popping during spring and summer.
Red River: Located between East Grand Forks, Minnesota and Grand Forks, North Dakota, this recreation area is unique and easily the most urban park in the Minnesota State Parks system. The campground is quite large and feels a little more like a lived in-trailer park littered with expensive RVs. There is a nice bike path along the Red River. Take a walk over the bridge across the river and look at the University of North Dakota’s architecture.
5–6 Hours
Old Mill: Continuing North and West, Old Mill is far-reaching. This little park is a former pioneer homestead of the Larson family. A tribute to the stone mill exists on the Middle River. The park has some lovely hiking trails next to the water and through the prairie. Also take note, you are so far north, you have reached snowshoe hare territory.
Lake Bronson: Head due North from Old Mill and you’ll reach the furthest Northwestern Park of Lake Bronson. Twenty miles from the Canadian border, the fact you’ve made it approximately 343 miles away from the Twin Cities or 520 miles away from the opposite side of the state is impressive. Lake Bronson was created during the Works Progress Administration and now is a recreational hub. Get your boat on or take a stroll.
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Iron Range Parks: The following parks are among those that fall within in the Iron Range Territory of Minnesota. This is a term given to the northern central region of the state that is or was dependent on mining iron-ore and other natural resources. Many of these parks are former mines that have been rehabilitated into recreation areas. There are still several working mines in northern Minnesota and they help define the culture and landscape.
2 -3 Hours
Cuyuna Country: A repurposed former open pit mine, Cuyuna Country is a mountain bikers playground. This spot has over 5,000 acres of undeveloped trails for biking. The campgrounds are fully set up with hose sprayers and there’s even a swimming beach if you don’t want to bike all day.
Iron Range OHV: This is a new age park for those that like toys. This place is an obstacle course made for ATVS, 4wheelers, lifted trucks, and more. Complete with a spray down hose and gated entrance at the front. Get dirty.
3–4 Hours
Hill Annex Mine: This park is a great pit stop when heading north. The place is tiny, with a huge view of the open pit iron ore mine. Now closed, the park offers a bit of history and stunning views. Vegetation and wildlife rehabilitation is under way so be on the lookout for coyotes and wolves.
McCarthy Beach: As the name indicates this place has amazing beaches. This park is home to stands of untouched pines and spruce trees. Located between Side Lake and Sturgeon Lake, McCarthy beach is great for swimming and boating. A true Northwoods park in the summer with stunning sunsets and full campgrounds.
Soudan Underground Mine: On the northern edge of the Iron Range lies Soudan Underground Mine a now inactive iron ore mine that was once the deepest and richest. Currently the mine is a laboratory and natural history museum. The tour is amazing and is the real draw from late May to late September. The park also has several miles of hiking trails on the premises.
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Northwoods: Here it is, the parks you have been thinking of the whole time. These are the Minnesota bread and butter in the land of lakes. Temperate boreal landscapes ripe with pines, spruces, birches, moose, black bears, and loons. These parks have that piny scent that you want to bottle up and take home.
1–2 Hours
Charles A. Lindbergh: Located right outside of Little Falls, MN, this park is named after the father of the early 20th century pilot. A turn of the century progressive Republican Congressman, Charles Lindbergh Sr. raised the famous aviator on this land. The park has a few miles of hiking trails along Pike Creek which feeds into the Mississippi River. Great for day hiking and an easy canoe on the creek.
Crow Wing: Right outside of Brainard, MN you’ll find Crow Wing State Park. This place has a lovely network of trails along the Mississippi River. Great for cross country skiing in the winter and hiking in the summertime. Also of note: the Paul Bunyan Bike Trail ends (or begins) here. The paved bike path travels 120 miles north through the Chippewa National Forest to Bemidji State Park.
3–4 Hours
Bear Head Lake: Further north just outside of Ely, MN lies Bear Head Lake. This state park feels and looks like the famed Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Dramatic big skies and lake views from several aspects on the shore. A few miles of hiking trails and wonderful cross country skiing in the winter. Do not skip this park.
Itasca: The crown jewel of Minnesota State Parks. Itasca is the headwaters of the mighty Mississippi River. Stretching from Itasca, MN all the way to its gulf, the Mississippi River is 2,552 miles long. Tourists flock to this beautiful place year round. The park is built out with several lodges, a lovely interpretation and visitor center, and ample places to hike. Luxury cabins exist for premium winter recreation and Wilderness Drive is a beautiful road that winds through the park.
Lake Bemidji: Back towards civilization in Bemidji, MN is another MN classic. Lake Bemidji state park is on the opposite side of this northern metro and is complete with lowland bogs, big water, and large pines. This is a great park to explore if you’re newer to tent camping and want to ease into it. There are plenty of ways to get lost in these woods as well. O, and don’t forget to say hi to Paul Bunyan and Babe in town.
Lake Vermillion: Just down the road from Soudan Mine is Lake Vermillion. One of the newest state parks (finished in 2020) this place has all the modern features including state of the art tiny house style cabins and several miles of shore line. Lake Vermillion is a Boundary Waters entry point and the fifth biggest lake in Minnesota.
Scenic: Time to head west again to Scenic state park. This beauty is another Northwoods gem. It is quiet, peaceful, and serene. There are a few miles of hiking trails, and Sandwick Lake makes for a meditating paddle. Easy access to camp here and absolutely worth the remote drive.
Schoolcraft: Heading further east is Schoolcraft state park. This one is just outside of the Chippewa National Forest near Grand Rapids Minnesota. The Mississippi River really opens up around this park and winds around it. There are several hiking trails, a nice campground, and a few canoe campsites.
4–5 Hours
Big Bog: Further north still, Big Bog Recreation is right off of Red Lake Reservation. This place is very cool. The bog boardwalk is action packed with plant communities. But we are not talking pretty about flowers, these plants have teeth. Sundews and pitcher plants may look unassuming, but they are carnivores. The bog is full of birds and a really swampy landscape. It is also the longest bog boardwalk in North America.
5- 6 Hours
Franz Jevne: Located on the Rainy River looking across to Canada is tiny Franz Jevne. This little park is old and packs a punch. The river is mesmerizing with several trails alongside it. Keep your eyes open for US border markers on the ground, flying squirrels in the trees, and bats at night. Definitely make the far reaching trip for this peaceful park.
Hayes Lake: Back in the northern brim of the state parks system is Hayes Lake. This park is densely packed dense with lush forests. Quiet all year long and great for much needed isolation. Snowshoeing is wonderful here in the winter time.
Zippel Bay: Absolutely my favorite park, fully biased and worth day dreaming about for years. Located on Lake of the Woods, Zippel Bay is a beast of power. Lake of the Woods is the 36th largest lake in the world and it is never to be taken lightly. The sheer awe of this lake on just this bay will blow you away. Dress for maritime conditions and be prepared for the weather to change. There are a few hiking trails, but spend your time wandering the shore. Collect a few rocks and dare to go for a cold swim. The campgrounds here are also extraordinary, do take advantage of them.
Garden Island: Ahhhh, the one that got away. I have not been here, but it exists and is elusive. Garden Island is approximately 21 miles away from the shores of Zippel Bay and one of among 14,000 islands. Lake of the Woods is as technical as an ocean, so getting there is a challenge and is not for the unskilled. There is a charter boat that will drop you off on it’s way to a northern resort for a nice premium charge. I challenge you to find a way to get to this island. I know will.
There you have it, the parks of the far and away. They are the Iron Range, Northwoods, and the Northwestern prairies we may just read about. As I said from the beginning, each park was absolutely worth the travel. Go explore our great state. The woods are calling. Get outside!!!
